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The
C2C is the iconic paddle for sea kayakers. The seed for this adventure
was sown in 2006 when Wayne Stocker and I completed the paddle with the
thought it might provide an incentive to other motivated members to
further hone their paddle and group management skills.
The
members for the inaugural paddle were Jim Bramley (experienced Sea
Skills), Kelvin Lewis (Advanced Sea Skills), Dave Oakley (experienced
Sea Skills), Rod Coogan (Instructor) and Di Bramley (experienced
on-shore support).
The
paddle commences rounding Cape Leeuwin, then passes Cape Hamelin, Cape
Freycinet, Cape Mentelle, Cape Clairault, Cape Naturaliste together
with numerous other features and surf breaks, most with
‘terminal’ sounding names.
Weather
conditions are a significant part when planning any ocean paddle,
particularly the C2C as there are few safe landing spots in big
conditions. Referring to BOM Wind Roses, February and March are prime
times in relation to winds. The weather pattern being hoped for was a
minimum of four highs of about 1030 hPa migrating toward southern WA
from south of South Africa. The highs at this strength are strong
enough to keep the low pressure systems down south toward Antarctica.
At 1.00pm, 8 March that’s exactly what we had!
All
members arrived at Turner’s Caravan Park, Augusta at varying
times Sunday afternoon. After erecting tents and a cuppa, the remainder
of the day was taken up with trip discussions and a late evening visit
to the launch site.Everything looked good for a Monday launch.
Day
1- Monday, 10 March 2008.
Destination: Hamelin Bay, actual: as planned. Distance: 24km
Weather: E/SE winds 15-20 knots tending S/SE 20-25 knots during the
afternoon. Seas to 2.0m, swell to 2.5m.
The
paddle rounding Cape Leeuwin can be a spooky experience. Big swells
from the SE/ SW and the point where they both meet, crashing surf that
sounds like a steam train with plenty of rock, reef and bombies to keep
you on your toes. Alan Hale joined us at the launch and paddled to the
‘water wheel’ before returning. Seas were of a
lumpy moderate swell that allowed us to sail most of the way to a lunch
stop at Cosy Corner. Enroute Dave saw a school of dolphins surfing
about and I really enjoyed using my new sail which I’d
previously tested at the Jurien weekend. On arrival at Hamelin Bay we
were greeted by the resident three sting rays who were cruising the
shallows. Di was already there with the Bramley camper set up
– lucky boy that Jim!
Day
2- Tuesday, 11 March 2008
Destination: Conto’s/ Bob’s Beach, actual: Kilcarnup. Distance: 33km
Weather: E/SE winds 13-18 knots tending 18-23 knots during afternoon.
Seas 1.5m, swell 2.5m.
Launched
this morning in good conditions toward North Point where we paddled
amongst the rocks and boulders. Passing North Point, Jim decided to do
some trolling. Cast his line but the only thing he caught was his sail!
Lunch
stop was around the surging surf of Cape Freycinet into the lee of
Conto’s Springs. Rounding the Cape Kelvin was paddling close
in shore but a safe distance from surging surf on rocks. However, as he
passed around ‘a corner’ so to speak, he was in the
wrong place at the wrong time and was swept up onto rocks. Kelvin
rolled three times but was immediately wiped out each time because he
was in a hole formed by surging current and submerged rocks. He was
out- Jim was in very quickly to attach a tow line and pull
Kelvin’s boat to less turbulent waters. I picked up Kelvin on
my bow and returned him to his boat. Damage was minor with small gouges
to bow, stern and helmet, slight abrasion to his shoulder and a torn
cag. Just as well he was wearing his helmet. We had lunch in the lee of
Conto’s with great views all around.
Leaving
Conto’s, Dave was paddling closer to shore toward Marmaduke
Point where he was nearly caught in shallow waters with dangerously
large breakers coming in. As you will read later in this article there
is a worrying connection between Dave, shallow water and big breaking
waves. At this point we paddled about 1km out to sea just to be sure of
no more surprises. We by-passed cappuccino at Gnarabut because it was
just too big to get in safely. Jim, the coffee magnet, was
disappointed, however within a few kilometres he was about to make a
starring splash!.
Approaching
Cape Mentelle we were paddling in large cresting swells when an
unexpected set rolled in. “Wave” was yelled and we
all headed seaward managing to miss the break. Jim was not so lucky. He
was trapped, braced the first breaker, thumped and capsized by the
second. Jim’s first roll attempt failed because the turbulent
aerated waters provided no support. By this time the third wave was
just about on him when he successfully rolled and managed to sprint
paddle just beyond its clutches. Dave, Kelvin and I were relieved, Jim
probably was too.
The
path into Kilcarnup had us paddling 3 metre faces in through the surf
break and around the reef. Because of high tide and strong winds there
was just enough space between rocks to camp.
Day
3- Wednesday, 12 March 2008
Destination: Cowaramup Bay, actual: Canal Rocks. Distance: 33km.
Weather: S/ SW 15-20 knots, Sea 1.2m, Swell 4.0m
The
launch from Kilcarnup was highlighted by a pod of surfing dolphins.
What a great sight to start to a big swell day. A short distance out,
Dave said he felt he had been bitten by something. There was a very red
lumpy rash on the inside of his elbow. Most likely an insect or spider
had crawled into his paddling top the previous night. The stinging
slowly subsided with no further problems.
The
10km paddle to Cowaramup Bay (Gracetown) was in building conditions and
surfers were out in force. We had to paddle a wide arc around South
Point to dodge some very intimidating surf. At Gracetown and headed
directly for the General Store for a well earned early lunch. That
consisted of juice, coffee, pies and pasties. We were hungry, to our
surprise, Dave ignored the lettuce leaves and carrot sticks to woof
down a vegetable pastie. This was a big day in more ways than one!
It
was 18km to Cape Clairault (Injidup) and we paddled this section with
one eye ahead and the other firmly out to sea. The swells were big and
the surf breaks pumping. It was impossible to miss Moses Rock. The
splash of the breaking waves reached to the cliff horizon. It was huge
and thankfully we were a safe distance from it. However, just around
the corner was the shore break at Injidup. As with entering Cowaramup
Bay we had to paddle a wide arc again around Cape Clairault to avoid
the huge surf breaks.
The
beach at Injidup Point is steep and was nothing as I remembered. The
beach was completely covered with surging water to the base of the sand
dunes and vegetation. There was a very intimidating shore break that
dumped directly on beach sand. The decision was to land and discuss
options and to rendezvous with Di Bramley. Adrenalin was pumping as we
approached that dumping shore break. Individually we waited for the
lull between sets then quickly and cautiously paddled in, stopping in
near knee deep water to let dumpers pass under us and paddle in on
their backs to be swept up the beach with the surge. Unfortunately this
is where Dave, big swells and shallow water come into play. Dave had
paddled into position, to let a swell pass under him. Problem was that
swell just kept getting bigger and bigger and within a second he was
trapped. It looked as though he had a tonne of water land directly on
top of him.
Still
in his boat, he braced, was crunched and appeared to have his kayak
swept over him in only centimetres of water. It was a very disturbing
sight. We instantly lunged for his boat as he was being rapidly sucked
out into the path of the next dumper. Dave emerged from his boat in
true James Bond style “shaken but not stirred”. By
this time Di had joined us to advise the whole beach was being pounded
by huge dumpers and of 35 knot NW winds tomorrow. Decision time: it was
late in the afternoon, no satisfactory tent sites, exposed beach,
conditions visibly building and discomfort guaranteed.
A
radio call to ACRAM confirmed winds and a strong wind warning issued.
The decision - launch (through that shore break) and paddle 5km to the
safety of Canal Rocks – quickly. The launch order would be
Kelvin, Rod, Dave and Jim. Kelvin lined up on the steep beach with the
rest of us ready to push him off. The lull came, he was off and out
successfully. This pattern was followed for all launches however for
Jim, he only had one remaining person to assist him - Di. They had to
wait at least 10 minutes for a lull between the huge curling dumpers,
and then it was one big push to get Jim clear.
Dave
and I held station off the beach waiting for Jim to launch. A two metre
wave caught us by surprise; we turned and paddled at it. The wave broke
directly onto our bows and we disappeared in the soup, and fortunately
came out the other side still upright. It was a hasty paddle to Canal
Rocks.
Di
was waiting for us when we arrived. In big swell and wind, Canal Rocks
is really a spectacular sight. We shuttled boats and wet gear to the
Caves Road Caravan Park for a layover day.
Day
4- Thursday, 13 March 2008
Destination: Injidup Point, Cape Clairault, actual: Bad weather,
layover day at Yallingup.Weather: NW winds 39 knots, sea 3.0m, swell
4.5m
Warm
showers, tent site with no sand, picnic tables at hand, cappuccino and
the best egg burger ever not far away, sleep in and the Bramley camper
nearby. We did enjoy the day off. Checked, cleaned and dried gear ready
for launch tomorrow. Went to a viewing point overlooking Smiths Beach
and Yallingup- there’s no way anyone would want to be out
there today. The forecast for Friday was looking good.
Day
5- Friday, 14 March 2008
Destination: Bunker Bay, actual: as planned. Distance: 21km. No stops.
Weather: E tending N at 11 knots, sea 1.5m, swell 4.0m.
We
returned to Canal Rocks to continue in good weather and large swells.
The main highlights being the approach to Sugarloaf and rounding Cape
Naturaliste. The breaking waves at Sugarloaf were pumping so we kept a
wide path of them and the three bears surf break nearby. I did not want
any mishaps on our last day. Rounding Cape Naturaliste was in high and
sometimes tricky swell conditions. Once past Naturaliste we paddled to
avoid bombies and reef on the approach to Bunker Bay. The landing at
Bunkers was text book and as usual Di was there to greet us.
Conclusion
I
was fortunate to lead a group of very experienced paddlers who have the
ability to apply their skills instinctively. If you want to pick up
good information then make sure you paddle with Dave, Di, Kelvin or Jim
sometime.
The
C2C is a great adventure for the experienced and prepared paddler. I
believe this is a trip should be scheduled once a year specifically for
those paddlers who are prepared to continue improving their skills and
build upon their bank of experience.
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Diane
farewelling Dave at Cape Leeuwin - photo Rose Hale
Cape Leeuwin,
paddlers just visible top left - photo Rose Hale
Rod approaches
Cosy Corner - photo
Kelvin Lewis
Jim and Kelvin
entering North Point -
photo Rod Coogan
Indijup Point shore
break - it was nasty! -
photo Rod Coogan
Jim approaches
Sugarloaf in 4m swells -
photo Rod Coogan
Dave Oakley, Jim
Bramley, Rod Coogan and Kelvin Lewis - photo Di Bramley
Things
observed, things to improve
& just plain things ……..
The
following points and suggestions come from the inaugural paddling team
over coffee (lay-over) Thursday at the Caves Road Camping Ground.
The list is not
definitive and is in random order.
- Know
your self-rescue and assisted rescue techniques so you can apply them
instinctively.
Everyone on this trip could and did!
- A hands free
bilge pump is compulsory plus back-up method/s.
- A correct
fitting helmet is compulsory. If in doubt, ask Kelvin. His saved him
from injury.
- Understand
group dynamics. They change with conditions and from day to day.
- Jim’s camp
chair is a hazard! It spontaneously collapses.
- Carry a
repair kit for your boat, tent and sail.
- Bring only
known, tested equipment. If it’s new and not tested, don’t bring it!
- This trip is
for paddle fit and experienced self reliant paddlers.
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Each paddler must be aware they are responsible for their own safety
and must not be dependent on other group members putting themselves at
risk.
- The group
will always assist however, only when it is safe to do so.
- Don’t let
Dave near big waves and shallow water!!
- A bomb proof
roll in a loaded boat is compulsory. Screw preferred, Pawlata
satisfactory.
- Trip Grade:
Sea Skills plus meaningful ocean paddling experience.
- Satellite
phone essential with minimum two VHF radios and spare batteries.
- Following
discussion, the leader has final say in relation to group safety. There
were no problems on this trip.
- Sailing
experience in 15-20 knot winds and paddling following seas over 20
knots.
- Update
weather reports daily. We nearly got caught!
- Be prepared
to change plans at any time- we had too late in the day at Injidup
beach.
- Stick to the
agreed communication plan with support vehicle. To our embarrassment,
we didn’t!
- Don’t trust
‘text messages’ as being received unless they are replied too. Happened
to us!
- Boats with
skegs only. Hmmm the jury is still out on that one!.
- The General
Store at Gracetown is a great place for an early lunch!
Even Dave enjoyed a vege pastie in place of his usual celery sticks and
lettuce leaves.
- Organizing
brekkies, lunches & dinners in daily plastic bags seemed to
work well.
ie: daily brekkie bags all stored in a dedicated brekkie dry bag.
- A mixed group
of paddlers and sail assisted paddlers might create group speed
problems.
-
Exercise care toward the end of your paddling day- that’s
when ‘things’ are more likely to happen!
- On this trip
it is important that everyone paddles at the same speed.
- Having a
support vehicle in case of evacuation is a very good idea.
- Consider
double bagging important items eg: spare warm clothing.
- Take a small
container of Vaseline for chafing. It has other uses!
- Surf landings
and launchings to high standard of proficiency in heavy conditions.
-
Minimize deck clutter: eg- Forward Deck- Deck Bag stowing an easily
assessable 15m tow line, and usual sail rig. Rear Deck: Break down
paddle.
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