Lunch break on
a small pebble beach beneath the towering cliffs.
Photo
Jane Perkins.
At lunch the
boats were brought onto the pebble beach. The flat seas and rock
outcrops we paddled through can be seen in the background.
Photo
Jane Perkins.
The tide is on
the way out as we prepare to launch. Lime kilns can be seen
on the bank on the left. Photo
Jane Perkins.
The geography
of the bitches tidal formation.
Image
from http://www.flickr.com/photos/earthwatcher/2925646467/
then annotated.
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On arriving at Haverfordwest train station in Pembrokshire, I was met
and taken to Preseli Venture's facility on the coast to the north.
That afternoon we selected our gear (Dagger Charleston boats,
farmer Jon wetsuits, cags, helmets, PFD, booties, paddles) and did an
introduction paddle in protected water at “the needle”.
The coast
around here was cliffs down to the water’s edge, with inlets that
allowed access. Along the cliffs there were various rock formations and
we were encouraged to test what the smallest gap that could be
navigated (with the assistance of the small swell). I started exploring
some caves – ignoring the warning that the Irish ferry would cause a
significant wake. Needless to say I was deep in a cave (almost dark)
when a significant set of waves came due to the ferry. I back paddled
like never before and survived (and I knew we had a good guide when I
turned around and saw Jon’s boat just inside the cave – at shoulder
height on the next wave). From that point on I explored caves in
reverse – improving my reversing skills significantly during the week.
As the week
progressed we were encouraged to find smaller gaps to
negotiate, and Jon was happy to instruct us on different draw strokes
if we wanted. On another day fishing lines were provided for those that
wanted to try kayak fishing – Jon was the only one who was successful.
Over the
course of the week we covered the St Davids coast from
Cardigan to Newgale as a variety of day paddles. It was easy paddling
with the wind or tide helping us along most of the time – and a pub at
the takeout point most days.
On the second
last day the tide and wind was favourable to do the
stretch of coast near Ramsey Island, Including the feature known as
“the Bitches” or “witches” depending on the tide direction – high tide
was to be around 3 pm and be about 6m, meaning peak flow was going to
be around 1 pm but not too strong. We were joined by the owner of
Preseli Venture, Nick, and put in at Whitesands bay. We
paddled across to Black Island, learning/practicing ferry-gliding as we
went. I found I needed to aim at least 30 degrees north of the island
in order to paddle in a line to the island – and we were not at peak
tide yet! We estimated that our speed due to the tide over the next
section was 8km/hr. Having circumnavigated this small island we headed
south, taking care to stay sufficiently east to ensure we went to the
east of Ramsey Island (Nick has had a group split in 2 as they reached
Ramsey Island and the current split around the island).
As we
approached the southern end of Ramsey Island we stayed close to the
coast (we did not want to go over the bitches) and one at a time went
through a natural cave/tunnel. Once positioned in the tunnel mouth you
were quickly swept through, and needed to make a hard right at the end
to the still water of a bay. Once assembled in the bay we ventured back
past the tunnel and got our first good look at the bitches. The guides
demonstrated the crossing of the first current and taking refuge in the
eddy between the currents. We then tried it ourselves and I was
promptly chewed up and spat out into the freezing water, only to float
downstream to Jon who was playing catch. I demonstrated the Australian
method of assisted rescue, but Nick insisted I use the English method –
I did not like lying between two boats, and then sliding up and into my
boat. After that I successfully negotiated the first eddy a couple of
times before stopping for lunch. The plan at the bitches was to head
upstream with around a 10 degree angle towards the current coming
through the rocks. The reality was as soon as the front of the boat got
into the water current it swung the boat around and you headed
downstream at a rapid rate, and paddled across to the next eddy. We
spent some time playing back and forth across the 4 currents, and
watching the water change character with the tide. Across at the
mainland we could see a fishing boat making almost no progress against
the tide, despite its best efforts. As the tide slaked off it was time
for us to continue to the takeout point.
On the last
day, we had become quite adventurous with our testing of
small gaps – a little too adventurous on one occasion, and one of the
boats has some serious gouges in it. The group all assisted in the
rescue with swimmer, paddle and boat being separated. The Australian
method of pulling up across 2 rafted boats was used to great effect,
before we got towed back to where the boat and paddle had been
collected to.
In all it was
great to paddle in different conditions, and I would
highly recommend it – the bitches was an extra bonus. I
learnt a lot of boat manoeuvring skills, unfortunately I lost most of
them over the next 2 months of no paddling.
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